Festive Funeral

Tourists often are able to get a mask ceremony arranged at a camping site for a fee. But we had the good fortune of witnessing an authentic mass funeral mask celebration. It was part of a three week celebration and we were at the culmination of the festivities. Approximately three different villages gathered their mask dancers, who were exclusively men, to the village of Wedie. In fact, women were not allowed near the masks at all. If a group of women saw a mask approaching in the distance, they immediately ran and hid. And despite not being Dogon myself, I too was excluded from the festivities and banished to the rooftops with the other women and children. The only exception to the rule is the Sigui female who cries and chants for the masks.

Bush taxi is the quickest way there

A mask taunting Alex and Ismael

Warming up before the dance

Mask police

Front row seats for men only

Dogon(it) it's hot!

I think no matter how many times you come to Dogon country, you cannot help but be humbled and amazed at the beauty of the landscape and the people that have lived here since the 14th century. The last time Marc and I were here, we started at Bandiagara and didn't make it to many villages since I was struck with traveller's stomach and instead nursed myself with soft drinks and Immodium at the hotel. This time, in better form, we started in the southern plain area, in the town of Bankass.

Souleyman, Yacouba and Alex on the cow-driven cart

Yacouba is Dogon guide extraordinaire. He is the link between the villages and the western world, helping projects like wells and schools come to fruition. He also loves his beer, as evidenced by his portly gut and can't walk a few meters without someone recognizing him and he having to run through the compulsory call and response greeting - he's the Don Corleone of the Dogon.

Ancient Dogon and Telum above and current village below

We came by cart and made our way up the Bandiagara escarpment to visit the old village carved into the cliffs. But the heat here is exhausting and you realize why there are no tourists this time of year! We needed an afternoon siesta for our morning efforts.

The next day we got our feet wet by visiting neighboring villages to Djiguibombo, Yacouba's village.

Traditional animist house - guinaa, granaries, and stone walls

Millet Lite