Spirit in the House

Although most Thai are Buddhists, spirit worship takes its place beside the dominant religion. In front of homes and businesses are spirit houses, made to appease the spirits by providing it both shelter and votive offerings. Often the larger the home or business, the larger the spirit house. Here are some in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok, home to big boutique hotels and Bangkok's expat community.

Koh T(ow!)

When you've screwed up the dates on your Vietnamese visa because the guy at the counter didn't tell you that the dates you put on the application will be the exact start date of your 30 day visa, what do you do? Suck it up and head south to one of Thailand's spectacular islands. With forecasts of rain on the Andaman side, we thought a few days of diving and relaxing on Koh Tao was just right. 

Our puddle jumper

This seemed to be the perfect spot, especially after meeting a family from Petaluma, California who had a boy nearly Alex's age and a toddler. We joined them at Nangyuan where boatloads of Japanese and Korean tourists were losing their scuba virginity. Not a bad spot, all you had to do was get in the water and the fish came to you. Unfortunately, our excursion with this family ended after lunch since they were headed back to Koh Samui. We continued on to explore the entire island by boat and snorkeled 3 more spots with nearly no one but schools of fish.

I'm glad we at least got in some snorkeling, because aside from forgetting my dive card and log book (what? this is THE diving island of Thailand) we took a big spill on a motorbike we rented to explore Koh Tao's turf. As per doctor's orders, we were NOT to step in that turquoise water, at least while our wounds were still fresh.

All is well when a lollipop is present...

or when sipping a virgin mojito

With diving, snorkeling and pretty much anything that had to do with water out, we instead entertained ourselves with some miniature golf. 

Forced relaxation also meant alternating between reading and napping  in our huge bungalow, nestled in the woods at Sensi Paradise Beach Resort. Though we thought we had left Myanmar behind the week before, nearly the entire staff at this place was Burmese. So, we got to greet with mingalar bar and thank with jezu ting ba de. Apparently there are over 7,000 people from Myanmar on Koh Tao alone. Many are there to make a decent living and to escape the oppression occurring in their native land. 

Here's where we didn't get to go for a swim: 

Or right in front of our hotel: 

On the way back, to add insult to injury (literally), we were told that our flight had been cancelled due to "bad weather". I think it was simply for the lack of passengers. However, we were refunded our plane fare and shuttled practically for free in a comfy minibus, sharing only with one other couple, on a 6 1/2 hour journey back to Bangkok.

Gonna Make Me Wet

We returned to Bangkok just in time for the raucous Songkran New Year's celebrations taking place throughout the streets. It is the hottest time of year and the water splashing offers some relief from the heat of the day. It is also symbolic of cleansing in preparation for the new year ahead. Another typical ritual includes getting smeared with a talcum based white paste to ward off evil spirits. More subdued (and traditional) celebrating involves pouring water over a Buddha and cultural shows at the temples.  

Here are some Songkran essentials to survive this soggy 3 day holiday: 

1. Don't think that just because you're a foreigner, you'll be spared. In fact, they'll go out of their way to get you drenched by pouring buckets of ice cold water over your head and on your back.
2. A small kid also doesn't give you a pass to stay dry. They'll give her a smaller spray but you'll get the full dose. 

 
3. Carry your money, cell phone, and camera in a plastic bag (or two). Even better, buy one of those plastic pouches they're selling everywhere.

4. If you plan on partaking in the serious water wars on Silom or Khao San Road, buy the biggest super-soaker you can find; they are merciless (and sometimes, very drunk). Otherwise, head to the shopping centers or parks where the water spraying and foam parties are contained. 

5. Don't wear that silk, dry-clean only couture dress. This is not the day to look fabulous. Stick to beach wear, tank tops and thin fabrics that dry easily or pick up one of the Hawaiian shirts that everyone else is wearing.  

6. Don't plan on going to that fine dining restaurant. Save that for a day where you know you won't have to sit in wet clothing in an air-conditioned room (if they even allow you in). 
7. Most of all, smile like the Thais and have fun. Really, when have you ever gotten smeared with wet talcum paste, hosed down with water, and screamed and laughed your head off? Think back to your childhood and running through the sprinklers at the park. 

8. If you don't want to deal with the constant soaking take a taxi to your destination or better yet stay at your hotel, order some room service, and come out 3 days later. You will have missed getting wet as well as missing all the good fun (and good luck) ringing in the Thai new year.

Happy Songkran! Wring out the old year and soak in the new one! 



 

Buddhas in the Rough

Hands of the Buddha at Wat Mahathat

At this point, I thought that another temple would just send me over the edge. But these two ruins demonstrate Thailand's vast and glorious past and is necessary (and just plain stunning) if you are on the heritage quest. 


Sukhothai

Although technically not the first Thai kingdom (Chiang Sean was established 500 yrs earlier as well as Lanna and Phayao already existing), it stands out as the "golden age" of Thai civilization. This was the peak of religious art and architecture and the king during 1275-1317, Ramkhamhaeng is credited with developing the first Thai writing.  

The grounds of the ruins are extensive so hiring a moto (moped) was the perfect way to see the site without suffering excessive heat exhaustion. Don't ask me how people were doing this by bicycle! It was steamy enough - even with wind (albeit, hot) blowing on us at 40km/hr. 

Our wheels - all 100cc of it

Alex assisting some archeologists on a dig

Wat Si Chum

Hand made toys

Little noise makers

BBQ lunch

Ayutthaya

Just as impressive are the ruins of Siam's second capital, Ayutthaya. King Ramathibodi came here to escape a small pox outbreak in the mid 1300s and Ayutthaya thrived until finally succumbing to another Burmese invasion in 1767. Unfortunately, at these sites, you'll find many Buddhas decapitated or even completely destroyed. 

Don't forget a boat ride around sunset to visit the many temples along the river that house gargantuan Buddhas.

Buddha seated at Wat Phanam Choeng

The reclining Buddha at Wat Yai Chaimongkon

Bicycles are best for the actual site since the temples are not too far apart. But for longer distances, you should hop into these pimped up tuk-tuks that have that Darth Vader look.